![\"PB100005\"](\"http:\/\/galootopia.com\/old_tools\/wp-content\/uploads\/KK51.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nI almost stopped at this point. All the parts looked very rusty and I was worried about pitting underneath. The other side of the parts didn\u2019t look any better.<\/p>\n
Still, I decided to go ahead. I gave all the parts a citric acid bath (1 part citric acid to 16 parts hot water) for about 4 hours. After 2 hours, I watched the bath carefully to try to get maximum rust removal with minimum metal loss.<\/p>\n I then cleaned the metal parts with dish soap, a scrub brush and steel wool. (I did not use steel wool on the japanning). This required more effort than usual, but I was satisfied with the results.<\/p>\n The base and lever cap looked better, but those dang screws were still rusted solid in place.<\/p>\n In general, the parts look fairly bright without appearing to be over-cleaned.<\/p>\n There were still a few spots left of the black residue that lives under the red rust. I didn’t worry about that too much and took care of them later with dental picks, some sandpaper, and a ScotchBrite pad.<\/p>\n Here is the re-assembled Keen Kutter K5 (behind the K4) in good condition. I had not cleaned the K5 blade at that point. I did that later with fine sandpaper and a wheel since I don\u2019t use\u00a0 usually use citric acid on plane blades (or brass parts). The japanning on the K5 is pretty crummy, but I left it as is for the moment. The rosewood is nice with no breaks or other damage.<\/p>\n Addendum:<\/strong><\/p>\n Happily, the K5 turned out to be fully salvageable. I\u2019ve was able to get the frog adjustment and lever cap screws loose after considerable effort and application of 3-in-1 Liquid Wrench to both frozen screws.<\/p>\n The frozen lever cap screw wasn’t too bad. I was able to free it the day after I applied Liquid Wrench. I used channel lock pliers and considerable effort (and care) to turn it loose. I\u00a0 did munge up the unthreaded part of the screw shaft a bit with the pliers. I would have been better off using vise grips, but I didn’t have any handy with jaws narrow enough to avoid crushing the threads. Still, the screw was useable after removal.<\/p>\n The frog adjustment screw proved to be much more difficult. I applied Liquid Wrench for six days before the screw would budge. (Note that the Liquid Wrench only made it about 60% down the screw shaft in those six days). I had to use vice grips to get things rolling — about 40 lock-and-turns to rotate it 1-1\/2 turns. That burred the head of the screw a bit. Then I used a big brute screwdriver to finish. Again, the screw was still useable when I was done.<\/p>\n Finally, I gave the iron, wood, machining, and alignments a final check. Everything looked good except for the screws and misc. parts. They were still a little rough.<\/p>\n I dug through my parts stash and had no problems finding replacement parts. That’s one thing I really like about this type of Bedrock. Stanley Bailey parts can be used as exact replacements if one has a parts plane from the right era.<\/p>\n Below you can see the rough K5 parts and and their Stanley Bailey replacements.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n